I’ve been stuck indoors for around a year and a half because of the COVID pandemic, more or less. While other countries started slowly opening up and going back to normal, Metro Manila made wearing face shields a requirement to going out as part of its perpetual lockdown. And since I really didn’t want to bother with all the stupid, I opted to just stay home and self-isolate. Between all the takeout, grocery deliveries, and setting up a dedicated workstation in my studio (as opposed to just working off of my dining room table), I was doing pretty ok. I wasn’t really thriving, but it felt a little better than just surviving. What I really missed was my social life. Specifically, going to restaurants, sitting down to a good meal, and seeing my friends. So when I got invited to visit The Fatted Calf in Silang, Cavite and get to see actual people, the day couldn’t come any sooner!
The restaurant is just outside Metro Manila, right before you get to Tagaytay, and makes for a fantastic excuse to just get away from the concrete jungle and head up to enjoy the cooler weather and the lush greenery the restaurant is surrounded by. It’s run by husband-and-wife team, Chefs Jayjay and Rhea SyCip, with Jayjay heading the hot kitchen and Rhea running point on her mouthwatering desserts. I was a big fan of Rhea’s before I met her, having ordered a box of Flour Pot Manila‘s famed glazed strawberry doughnuts and just fell in love. I swear, anything that comes out of that woman’s oven is nothing short of amazeballs.
Even if it isn’t your first time there, it would be best to Waze your way to The Fatted Calf so you don’t get lost in the twists and turns of the bowels of Silang. Jayjay and Rhea definitely know, as they had also gotten lost there years before when they were still just dating, and they stumbled upon the bungalow that was then the residence of actor Dindo Arroyo, which has now been transformed into the restaurant. They have quite the story for getting The Fatted Calf off the ground and all the love, sweat, and tears that has gone into the 35-seater restaurant is something out of a Danielle Steel novel. From looking for an ideal place for their new restaurant and ending up with the place they had gotten lost in back in 2007 to slowly buying the furniture needed – each time Rhea would get paid, they’d buy a new chair, every time Jayjay would get paid to consult on a project, they’d buy a table. They had just opened The Fatted Calf to fantastic reviews in the last quarter of 2019, and in the beginning of 2020, Taal volcano started spewing ash and they had to shut down. And then in March of the same year, the pandemic started. Later on, Jayjay got COVID and was in the ICU for a month. Thankfully, he’s fully recovered, but the ordeal has left him sounding like a huskier, cheerier Renz Verano.
The couple hold strong religious convictions – I find it beautiful to know that Jayjay likes to start his mornings singing his favorite worship songs – and even the restaurant name is a reflection of that. In the new testament there’s the story of the prodigal son, and when he finally returns home, his father welcomes him back and orders his servants to kill the fatted calf to celebrate the occasion.
Jericho and I met up with our foodie friends for a lazy, long brunch. While we were waiting for everyone to settle in, we got treated to a fresh strawberry and basil drink – strawberry jam and Thai basil muddled and topped with fizzy soda water. The place has a laidback, chill farmhouse vibe – Jayjay describes it as fine casual dining. All the ingredients on the menu are fresh (and local, as much as possible) sourced directly from the farmers, co-ops and suppliers – from the sweet pineapples from neighboring Tagaytay to the big, juicy strawberries from the Cordilleras. A lot of love and thought goes into each dish, no matter how simple it may appear to be.
The Best Brunch Hideaway
This has definitely become my favorite weekend secret brunch spot. I’ve come back here with friends, to celebrate Jericho’s birthday (twice) and just to get away from the city, enjoy the cooler weather, and unwind with the dogs! Like me, the SyCips have a soft spot for strays, and they have around 10 dogs total, eight of which are female, so every time I go visit it seems that at least one of them is always pregnant.
Brunch at The Fatted Calf is available from 8am – 11am, so come early to enjoy classic favorites like their delicate waffles, or message them and order in advance so they can set aside a portion of your favorite plate for you. Believe me, there are some dishes that are 69-ed as early as nine in the morning because big groups would order the same thing.
Nothing cheers me up in the mornings than tucking into a fat stack of perfectly made waffles, and the Mixed Berry Waffles (₱295) at The Fatted Calf hits the spot, with whipped butter and maple syrup on the side for that extra indulgence. The waffles are crisp yet light, and the dusting of powdered sugar on top brings out the sweetness of the fruit. I usually whip up fluffy pancakes or a fry up on weekends, so this was quite the treat.
The farmhouse kitchen lives up to its name and has a very egg-heavy breakfast menu. Sourcing eggs from a local farm in Batangas whose chickens are mainly fed flax seeds, one can appreciate thought that goes into Lucciole’s Kale Baked Eggs (₱295), served en cocotte with mushrooms, asparagus, and house-made bread.
Another must-try variation is the The Fatted Calf Baked Eggs (₱295) – which has a Thai twist – something that Jayjay would enjoy before heading to class at Le Cordon Bleu in Thailand – with bacon, arugula, cherry tomatoes, and southern kesong puti sourced from a co-op in Tagaytay that’s been brined in vinegar and sea salt for five days. This is also served with their house-made bread for you to scoop bits and pieces of the œuf cocotte to savor, which each mouthful being a different combination of flavors.
As far as open-faced sandwiches go, I’d wager you’d find the freshest and most generous toppings here. Take their Mushrooms and Asparagus Tartine (₱345), for example. Their fresh, house-made rustic bread is topped with three different kinds of mushrooms, bright green asparagus spears, and Malagos cheese flown in from Davao.
Even something as simple as Smoked Salmon Scrambled Eggs (₱410) is elevated to a whole new level using the freshest, quality, local ingredients, and a whole lot of love, so the individual ingredients shine through. Their salmon is smoked and cured in-house, and practically melts in your mouth with the perfectly cooked free-range scramble with just a pinch of fresh dill to bring everything together.
Not to be forgotten is their Farmer’s Tartine (₱475). Chef Jayjay uses local patani whenever it’s in season (and swaps it out for edamame edamame purée when not available) as a base for the fresh rocket and cherry tomatoes, with the star being the ball of local Burrata from Casa del Formaggio in Negros on top, cucumber vinaigrette and a hit of lemon. When cut open, it oozes out a creamy, spreadable center, the delicate flavors balancing out.
Seriously Satisfying Salads
I’ve learned to skip the salads when eating out – I’ve only really had a handful that I feel has been worth what I’d pay for, but when you’re at The Fatted Calf, all the salads are practically a meal in itself. Each bowl would probably be good for sharing, but if you’re the type to appreciate a fruit and vegetable medley, then this is where you want to be because Jayjay takes his salads seriously!
A seasonal salad you should keep your eyes peeled for is their Glow Salad (₱420) that uses mix greens from Tagaytay, piled on with slices of oranges, pineapples, and strawberries, as well as pili, walnuts, cashews, candied ginger, and dried fruit, with a coffee-infused cacao vinegar dressing to bring everything together.
A savory option is the Mushroom Salad (₱420) which includes seared oyster mushroom, pickled shimeji mushrooms, and candied shiitake dressed with a nutty honey garlic vinaigrette.
An IG-worthy favorite is their Burrata Salad (₱550) whose crisp greens are hidden underneath peels of orange carrots, plum tomatoes, a fresh ball of burrata cheese as its centerpiece, with a generous glob of nutty malunggay pesto and a smattering of sunflower seeds for extra texture.
When It Isn’t a Meal Without Rice
Now, I get that not everyone’s going to be as excited over salads as I am. Don’t ya’ll worry, they have some amazing rice bowls, too! Groups of bikers and motorcycle enthusiasts would head up to the restaurant on weekend and wipe out their stocks for the day, almost all in one sitting! And it’s not hard to see why. The food is simple, but it can hold its own against any five-star hotel breakfast menu, in my opinion.
The Fatted Calf’s Thai Breakfast Bowl (₱375) is another nod to Jayjay’s Le Cordon Bleu roots, a nod to a simplified pad kra pao. The ground pork is seasoned in Thai yellow curry and cooked with kaffir leaves and fragrant lemongrass atop fluffy white rice, the perfect sunnyside egg on top to add a creaminess as well as extra protein – perfect for the padyak people who need to bike their way back down after.
I would describe their Chicken Adobo (₱325) as finger licking good – there’s something extra good about their marinated free-range chicken leg quarter, served with a boiled egg, atchara, and sprinkled with crispy garlic. Juicy and succulent, a little salty, with lots of umami, this bowl really hits the spot.
Personally, I think the pièce de résistance of their breakfast menu is their Beef Pares Bowl (₱375). There are motorcycle groups that head up to the restaurant at early as 8 o’clock in the morning just to be the first ones to get dibs on this bowl, and I don’t blame them. I’ve called in advance a few times to request that they put two bowls aside for me kasi takot akong maubusan – ganon siya kabenta. Their pares is Jayjay’s homage to his school days, eating pares at Retiro, except his version uses local grass fed beef that are fork tender, served with their house-made atchara, the perfect scrambled eggs, and their chili oil. Oh lordy, how I wish they would bottle and sell their chili oil! The pares by itself is already fantastic, but the heat from their house-made chili oil just takes it to another level – the broth that comes with the pares is to help stop the stuff from burning a hole in the roof of your mouth. In a good way. Chili lovers will crave the stuff! And for those who aren’t a fan of extra heat, it would be best to use it sparingly.
When Brunch Turns Into Lunch
By the time we were done eating our way through The Fatted Calf’s breakfast menu, it was already time for lunch! And Jayjay just keeps the hits coming. Most of the sandwiches and baos are good for one person, but they also have dishes that are good for sharing.
I love myself a chicken burger, and Jayjay’s Sriracha Chicken Sandwich (₱425) definitely ticks all my boxes! The hefty free-range bird is dunked in a spicy butter, sandwiched between coleslaw and their soft brioche served with a side of crispy potato wedges.
A heavier option is The Fatted Calf Cheeseburger (₱490), where they pay homage to how burgers are supposed to be made. Local grass-fed beef is hand cranked and formed into patties, before being thrown on the grill and dressed with Cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, and onions, with the buns patted with thousand island dressing before being served up with potato wedges.
For small groups, I highly recommend their Osso Buco (₱670 good for 1-2 persons). This has been a staple order every time I’ve come back to the restaurant. Each locally-sourced beef shank is sous vide and simmered for hours in a thick tomato sauce that’s been reduced with red wine and a smattering of herbs, served with gremolata and sweet potato purée. The beef practically falls away from the bone and you can fight over who gets to eat the marrow happily bubbling away in the center of the bone.
For families and big groups, you really can’t go wrong with their Whole Roasted Leg of Beef (₱1,995). The local, grass-fed leg is covered in aromatic spiced and roasted for 10-hours with roasted vegetables and served with rum jus. What you get is a leg with a crispy crust and oh-so-tender on the inside. Because of the cooking time required, this needs to be ordered in advance. It is so worth it!
Make Room for Flour Pot Manila‘s Cakes
After Jayjay flexed his expertise in the hot kitchen, it was Rhea’s time to shine when dessert rolled around. I was too stuffed to eat after that leg of beef, but I also have super low EQ when it comes to anything Rhea puts out. I’ve even messaged her social media person to stop tempting me with extra cakes because I will for sure buy one.
We all got treated to a smorgasbord of desserts that day – Rhea’s flex of everything there is to offer. There were slices of light Strawberry Shortcake, an uber moist Tres Leches covered with fresh cream and huge strawberries, a classic take on the Pinoy favorite, Mocha Cake with burnt honeycomb, Ube Cake made from Good Shepher’s ube halaya, Dark Chocolate Tablea Cake that isn’t too sweet and uses tablea from Davao, an Avocado Sponge Cake that uses avocados from their backyard, and her signature desserts Butter Rum Cake – a bundt doused in Very Old Captain Rum (not for the faint of heart!) as well as her Strawberry Doughnuts which are hand-rolled. yeast raised, and coated with a luscious vanilla glaze.
You can enjoy these by the slice at The Fatted Calf, depending on what they have available, but you can also order them for delivery – their Strawberry Shortcake (₱2,250) has become my go-to cake to send out to loved ones celebrating during this pandemic. The sheer size makes it quite the show stopper and once you start tucking into a slice, it’s very hard to stop!
The Conclusion
The Fatted Calf has definitely become one of my favorite places to escape to during this pandemic. I love that it’s outside of Metro Manila, I can get as much fresh air as I want, there are a lot of friendly (maybe a little skittish) dogs around to feed, pet, and play with, everyone is friendly and accommodating, and the place just urges one to stay awhile. All it’s missing is wifi and I’d probably be there once a week for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
As I had mentioned, I’ve come back a few more times after our first visit, including a double birthday celebration. I suggest reserving one of the tables outside if you want to enjoy the fresh air and get a view of the garden. Families with kids enjoy the dogs who are friendly, but also wary of strangers, so please be responsible with your children so they don’t get hurt. The restaurant is pet friendly, too, as long as you keep your pet to your table, they don’t mind. Our furbabies need to stretch their legs and get out of the city, too!
I almost want to keep this hidden gem to myself. I already have the bikers to contend with for the beef pares! But Jayjay and Rhea’s food really is just too good not to share. They have overcome so much to keep their little restaurant that could going, and I’m glad to see that today, they’re thriving! So go on and book a table, pay them a visit, and make sure to take some of their baked goods home with you. And I promise, you’ll fall in love with The Fatted Calf, too.
